Mountain Peaks – Torfinnstindtraversen

First of 3 rappells, down from "Mitre Torfinnstind", photo from Ståle Rudiløkken
First of 3 rappells, down from “Mitre Torfinnstind”, photo from Ståle Rudiløkken

About the trip

Torfinnstindtraversen is one of the classics in Jotunheimen. It takes you across the mountain Torfinnstindane’s three peaks, all of which are over 2000 meters high. The journey across Eastern Tofinnstind (2120 meters), Middle Torfinnstind (2112 meters) and Western Torfinnstind (2095 meters), is demanding one. It takes you through four rappels (going downhill using ropes), and has several areas that require light – to somewhat tougher climbing (grade 2-3). Torfinnstindtraversen is therefore well suited for thrill seekers and sporty mountaineers, who like to take on a challenge.

The route offers spectacular panoramic views of Jotunheimen, which themselves as well worth the trip. In addition, you are guaranteed a sense of mastery unlike any other when having travelled across these three majestic giants. I mean – how many can say that they have in fact climbed three 2000-meter peaks in one single day?!

Torfinnstindane is located in the southern part of Jotunheimen, by the shores of lake Bygdin, in the municipality of Vang. You can access the area by catching the M/B Bitihorn ferry from Bygdin (the place), and hopping off at Torfinnsbu. From Torfinnsbu, the climb almost immediately starts up towards the first peak, Eastern Torfinnstind. From here you continue on over to Middle Torfinnstind, and then over to Western Torfinnstind, before you descend down and return to Torfinnsbu.

The duration of the trip across Torfinnstindstraversen may vary quite a bit, but it will likely take from 9 to 12 hours to complete. As it is so long, it can be combined with an overnight stay at one of the cabins in the area, and you can return with M/B Bitihorn the following day.

Description

From Torfinnsbu, one follows the marked path towards Gjendebu up Torfinnsdalen, to where the terrain flattens out somewhat. Here you turn left onto an unmarked trail, which leads up into a chute formation that leads to the first peak. Here there will be some light climbing, which eventually becomes somewhat airy. After the first peak- and 1059 meter elevation has been reached, it is time to put the climbing equipment to use. The first rappel brings you down into the 100-meter deep “cut” between the eastern and the middle peak. There will then be some climbing up to the top, before there, a few meters from the top, awaits a new rappel down towards the western and last one of the peaks. This rappel is of the airy kind. After that, there are a few meters out to the next rappel, but first one has to climb up a leg that is graded 2+, and for some can be quite demanding. The third rappel is short and easy, while the forth and last one is the longest, and perhaps airiest of them all, as one has to go far into a dark, cramped gorge. From the gorge and up to the last peak, the rout is slightly exposed and airy, with some parts at a climbing grade of 2+. When you reach the western peak, you can look back on and admire the majestic mountain massif you have just crossed. Then, a steep, 1000-meter descend awaits you, as the journey goes back to Torfinnsbu.

Østre Torfinnstind, Photo by Ståle Rudiløkken

Whom the trip fits for

As the journey is challenging both physically and technically, and the right equipment and knowledge is essential, the tour can only be carried out accompanied by an experienced, certified guide. Even with a guide, the trip requires the climber to have certain knowledge, as well as be in good shape. Climbing three 2000-meter peaks in one day requires endurance, good physical health, and hiking and/or climbing experience. As the trip requires rappelling, one has to have experience with securing ropes and using prusik knots, in order not to slow down the group. If you do not have this experience in advance, you can book a climbing course the day before.

When to go

As the easiest way to get to Torfinnsbu is by boat, the season for this trip is from late June to mid September, which is when the M/B Bitihorn boat operates.

Book your tour to Torfinnstindtraversen now:

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Torfinnstindtraversen packages are arranged in cooperation with Jotunheimen Mountaineering.




For more options, see all our excursions.

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